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FAQs

Disclaimer

We are not panel beaters, engineers, mechanics, auto electricians, auto trimmers, fabricators etc. The information supplied comes from experience and the best resources we have access to. Think of this as a “Dummy’s guide to” rather than a comprehensive guide. We strongly recommend you do your own research or seek professional assistance where required.

We also use the term “bolt” interchangeably with “set screw” to keep things simple.

Ordering

Who am I buying from?

JNS Fasteners is family owned and operated for over 40 years. We have 5,000+ regular trade customers and thousands of new online customers every year.

You get:

Real customer service staff. Real warehouse staff. Real sales representatives with products you can see and touch before you buy. No AI slop.

Where am I buying from?

Online and phone orders are despatched out of our Melbourne warehouse.

We have 8 vans across 5 states in Australia servicing trade customers.

How do I order?

Whatever works for you.

For most new or one-off customers, our web store is best.

  • You can securely pay using various methods, receive a digital invoice and tracking updates.

You can call. You can email. Sorry, you cannot fax, we are in the 2020s.

If you are a trade customer, we encourage you to use our trade order form to put your order on a 30-day EOM account. If you are interested but not a current customer, get in touch and let’s chat!

How long does delivery take?

We use Australia Post for most online orders. This means you CAN use your PO box as a postal address.

The following page explains our delivery times best: Australia Post delivery speeds and coverage.

Parcel post = regular post. Express post parcels = express post.

For larger orders, we mostly use TNT.

Let’s use some common sense, people. If you are in a remote area, chances are it will take longer. If you live in Western Australia, it will likely push things out by another day.

We can promise to despatch within our SLAs. Once the order is with the delivery company, it is out of our control. In maybe 1 in 1,000 something will go wrong. We will try to help to the best of our ability.

What is the delivery cut-off time?

Our cut-off for any business day is 2pm AEST. Orders received prior to this time will be despatched that day.

Let’s work through some examples of what this means.

  • Order placed on a Tuesday at midday. We will despatch Tuesday afternoon.
  • Order placed on a Tuesday at 8pm. We will despatch on Wednesday afternoon.
  • Order placed on Saturday at 6pm. We will despatch on Monday afternoon.
  • Order placed on Monday at 1pm, but it’s a public holiday in Melbourne/Victoria. We will despatch on Tuesday afternoon, assuming it is not a public holiday too.

If you order using our web store, expect tracking information between 3.30pm and 4.00pm AEST.

I don’t like ordering online

No problems. Easiest to give us a call. We can take payment over the phone, or email you an invoice to pay via EFT.

We have literally never sent any marketing via email, if you are concerned about receiving endless emails post purchase.

I can’t find the size of the product I need; do you have more?

Everything we sell is listed on our website.

You are welcome to ask if we can source a different size, but please understand:

  • Some products are made specifically for us and to obtain a different size would involve manufacturing, lead times and high MOQs.
  • Others are easy to source but again may have MOQs.
  • When it comes to older, restoration-type fasteners the answer will likely be that it needs to be purchased from overseas (USA) if you can’t find it in Australia, or it just isn’t manufactured anymore and you’ll need to find a substitute.
What’s the best way to find my clip?

The most reliable is if you are able to get a part number from the manufacturer and search. E.g. Mazda: KD53-51-SJ3A.

We DO need hyphens or dashes in between the numbers if applicable.

Next best option is to head to our Plastic and metal clips page. Click on the type of clip to narrow things down, e.g. push type retainer, moulding clip etc.

Otherwise, or in conjunction with this, picking the vehicle manufacturer from the filter also helps a lot.

Other searching options include filtering for length, head size, clip diameter or hole size.

Unfortunately, we cannot just punch your car registration into a system to find the clips you require. We wish it was that easy!

What if I can’t find my clip?

Sending an email is probably best. The more information the better. Giving us a part number from your vehicle manufacturer can let us know with certainty if we can assist.

If you do not have this, then photos and the make and year of your car plus the application of the clip will assist us in identifying the clip.

Whilst we do have 1,000+ of the most popular and current clips, we do not have them all. Some clips never make it to the Australian aftermarket.

Chances are if your vehicle is on the older side or was not particularly popular, we likely won’t be able to assist.

It also takes a couple of years for certain clips to be introduced into the aftermarket. So unfortunately, we do not have many, if any, clips for newly popular makes such as GWM, MG, BYD, Haval etc.

What is your returns policy?

Right here: Refund policy.

What is the minimum quantity I can order?

Every product has its own minimum quantity to order, also known as a refill size. Refer to the packet size column on the product page.

For some products such as tools or assortment kits, the minimum quantity is 1.

What is the maximum quantity I can order?

Most products will have multiple packet sizes available.

If you want to purchase more than the largest pack size, we encourage you to contact us first to make sure we have enough on hand, or to advise what the lead time may be should it need to be ordered in.

Products

Glossary and acronyms you may find across our site

A/F = Across flats or head size

  • The distance across two opposite flat sides of the head of a hexagonal bolt or a nut.
  • This also indicates the spanner size or socket you need to tighten or loosen the nut or bolt.

Length

  • The distance starting from underneath the head of a bolt or clip until the end of the bolt or clip.
  • If the screw has a “dog point” such as in certain SEMS screws, this is included in the length.

Hole size

  • The diameter of the hole the clip or rivet is intended for.

Head size

  • The distance across two opposite sides of the head of a plastic clip.
  • Some clips, mostly door trim clips, may have multiple heads.
  • Clips with two heads will refer to them as top and bottom heads.
  • Clips with three heads will refer to them as top head, middle head and bottom head.

Diameter

  • The size of the widest part of the threaded section of a bolt, or the shank of a clip.
  • There is further information in the FAQs below on the difference between imperial and metric systems of measurement in fasteners.

ID = Inner diameter

  • The distance across the centre from one side of an internal opening to another.
  • Used in describing the hole size for washers, spacers, wiring grommets, P clips, heat shrink, electrical terminals (also known as tab size) and cable lugs (also known as stud size).

OD = Outer diameter

  • The distance from one outside edge to another of a round object.
  • Used in describing the external size of washers, spacers, wiring grommets and blanking grommets.

TPI = Threads per inch

  • Counts the number of threads in an inch of threaded section.
  • There is further information in the FAQs below on pitch types.

UNC = Unified National Coarse. UNF = Unified National Fine.

BSF = British Standard Fine. BSW = British Standard Whitworth.

  • A specific thread type outside of contemporary metric or imperial pitches.
  • Used in older British machinery or vintage automobiles and motorcycles.
  • Makes include Jaguar, MG, Land Rover, Triumph, Morris/Mini.

GR = Grade. CL = Class.

  • There is further information in the FAQs below on different strengths of bolts and screws.

MM = Millimetre. PH = Phillips head. SS = Stainless steel. ZY = Zinc yellow.

One part, many names!
  • Scrivet, push rivet, screw rivet, expansion clip, plastic clip, plastic retainer, retaining clip, push pin, arch liner clip, bumper clip, guard clip, fender clip, trim clip
  • Rivnut, nutsert, rivet nut, blind rivet nut, nut insert, threaded insert
  • Bolt, set screw
  • Tri fold, bulb rivet, tri bulb, exploding rivet
  • SEMS, assembly screw, washer assembly, combination screw, combo screw, captive washer screw
  • Mudguard washer, penny washer, large OD washer
Imperial vs metric

Metric – measured in mm

  • E.g. screw or bolt diameter 6mm, 8mm, 10mm etc. Also known as M6, M8, M10 etc.
  • The thread is also measured in mm. E.g. M8 x 1.25p, which means 1.25mm is the pitch or gap between peaks of the screw threads.
  • Length, you guessed it, also mm. E.g. M8 x 25mm x 1.25p – 25mm being the length of the screw.

Imperial – measured in inches

  • E.g. screw or bolt diameter 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8” etc.
  • The thread is measured in TPI, or threads per inch. E.g. 1/4” 20 TPI, which means 20 threads per inch of screw.
  • Length, you guessed it, also inches. E.g. 1/4” x 1” x 20 TPI – 1 inch being the length of the screw.

There are also differences in measuring the strength of the screw between metric and imperial. There is further information in the FAQs below on bolt strength.

At a very high level for our product range:

  • Class 8.8 in metric is roughly equal to Grade 5 imperial
  • Class 10.9 metric is roughly equal to Grade 8 imperial
  • Class 12.9 in metric is roughly equal to Grade 9 imperial
Coarse vs fine pitch (plus BSW and BSF)

As bolts start to increase in size, 1/4” imperial or 6mm metric, you will have the option of a coarse or fine pitch for your bolt. Once you start using 3/8” or 10mm bolts or larger, where bolts handle substantial loads, the engineering choice becomes important.

Coarse pitch bolts

  • Fewer threads per inch, more distance between peaks
  • Typically the default option
  • Faster to install
  • Lower shear strength
  • Greater threat to loosen under constant vibration
  • Low risk of cross threading or galling

Fine pitch bolts

  • More threads per inch, smaller distance between peaks
  • Slower to install
  • Higher shear strength
  • Best for vibration resistance
  • Higher risk of cross threading or galling

Metric (coarse vs fine pitch)

  • M6 x 1.0 (coarse) or M6 x 0.75 (fine) – we do not offer M6 fine
  • M8 x 1.25 (coarse) or M8 x 1.0 (fine) – we do not offer M8 fine
  • M10 x 1.5 (coarse) or M10 x 1.25 (fine)
  • M12 x 1.75 (coarse) or M12 x 1.5 (fine)

Imperial (UNC vs UNF)

  • 1/4” – 20 TPI (coarse) or 1/4” – 28 TPI (fine)
  • 5/16” – 18 TPI (coarse) or 5/16” – 24 TPI (fine)
  • 3/8” – 16 TPI (coarse) or 3/8” – 24 TPI (fine)
  • 7/16” – 14 TPI (coarse) or 7/16” – 20 TPI (fine) – we do not offer 7/16” fine
  • 1/2” – 13 TPI (coarse) or 1/2” – 20 TPI (fine) – we do not offer 1/2” fine

BSW (British Standard Whitworth) and BSF (British Standard Fine)

  • A specific thread type outside of contemporary metric or imperial pitches.
  • Used in older British machinery or vintage automobiles and motorcycles. Makes include Jaguar, MG, Land Rover, Triumph, Morris/Mini.
  • These differ from metric bolts and UNC/UNF, as the angle of their thread is different, which makes them incompatible.
  • You cannot match BSW with BSF, or with metric or UNC nuts and bolts.
  • We do not offer any BSW or BSF products.

There can also be coarse and fine pitches when it comes to self-tapping and self-drilling screws, so be aware of how this may impact your application.

  • Softer materials such as plastics, soft woods or thin metal are more suited to coarse pitched screws.
  • Hard materials such as harder metals and alloys require a fine pitch screw.
Different bolt strengths – what do they mean?

Metric bolt strength chart

The table below breaks down the most common metric carbon/alloy steel grades found in industrial, automotive and structural applications.

Class (head marking) Tensile / yield Typical material & uses Imperial equiv.
4.6 400 MPa / 240 MPa Mild steel. Light-duty brackets, furniture and DIY. Grade 2
8.8 800 MPa / 640 MPa Medium carbon steel, quenched & tempered. Standard high-tensile rating for machinery and general fabrication. Grade 5
10.9 1,040 MPa / 940 MPa Alloy steel, quenched & tempered. High-strength heavy machinery, suspension systems and structural frames. Grade 8
12.9 1,220 MPa / 1,100 MPa Alloy steel. Highest standard strength class. Performance engines, socket head cap screws and extreme high-load joints. Exceeds Grade 8

Imperial bolt strength chart

The following table references common SAE/ASTM imperial fastener classes used in structural, industrial and automotive applications.

Grade (head marking) Tensile / yield Typical material & uses Metric equiv.
Grade 2 (no lines) 60–74k PSI / 36–57k PSI Low carbon steel. Hardware store utility use, light assemblies, furniture. Class 4.6
Grade 5 (3 lines) 105–120k PSI / 81–92k PSI Medium carbon steel, quenched & tempered. Standard automotive, heavy machinery. Class 8.8
Grade 8 (6 lines) 150k PSI / 130k PSI Medium carbon alloy steel, quenched & tempered. High-stress truck suspension, aerospace. Class 10.9
Grade 9 / L9 (9 lines) 180k PSI / 160k PSI High alloy steel. Specialised extreme-duty industrial fasteners, racing, earth-moving. Class 12.9
Why does plating on bolts matter?

Bolts are plated to make them look good and to offer resistance to corrosion. Not all plating, or lack of plating, is the same.

Bolts that may look black or are marketed as black – beware.

Plain bolts. They look black but are not. These are uncoated and provide no corrosion resistance. They will rust if exposed outdoors, or to moisture or humidity. They look black as they get a dark oxide film left on them after the heat treatment process. They often look and feel oily.

Black oxide. Technically not a plating, rather a chemical conversion of the outer layer of the metal. In order for it to become rust resistant, it is treated with oil after conversion. The coating is very thin and offers far less corrosion resistance than zinc plating.

Our most common plating

Zinc trivalent CR3+. This replaced CR6+ due to toxic hexavalent chromium. We typically offer this in zinc (silver) or zinc yellow (gold) for many of our bolts. It forms a protective layer over the zinc base for additional protection. It is environmentally friendly and generally the standard in automotive in Australia.

Black zinc nickel. Adding nickel increases the corrosion resistance greatly. It is also environmentally friendly.

Geomet®. GEOMET® coatings are applied using advanced dip-spin and spray methods. Each process ensures precise, uniform coverage and consistent film thickness for optimal corrosion protection and performance across components. Water-based zinc-aluminium flake coating. The highest corrosion resistance. Exceptional heat resistance. Environmentally friendly.

What are your clips made of?

PA 6 Nylon.

Possesses good electrical insulation properties, high mechanical strength and high stiffness. Exhibits good toughness, low friction, dynamic load bearing properties and good processability. Provides high wear, abrasion, shock and fracture resistance and the attenuation of noise and vibration. Shows high resistance to heat (170 to 200°C over the short term; 80 to 160°C long-term) and chemicals such as fuels, lubricants, solvents and cleaning agents. Suitable for processing by injection moulding. Used in automotive, electrical/electronics, building and construction industries. Complies with REACH (Regulation EC No. 1907/2006) and RoHS.

Source: SpecialChem – Durethan B 30 S

Are your clips universal?

Some are, mostly our Christmas tree clips and metal trim clips. Most are not.

Our push type scrivets, screw type scrivets, trim retaining clips, moulding clips, screw grommets, panel retaining clips, hood retaining clips, grille clips and weatherstrip clips are almost all OEM automotive.

What does this mean? They all have part numbers for specific manufacturers and are meant to fulfil a specific role on a specific car or cars.

Now it’s a bit complicated. Some applications require a very specific clip where substitutes won’t work.

Then there are some, mostly scrivets, where many of the clips are nearly identical but have a different part number as it’s for a different manufacturer, but might be 1mm different in head size or length etc.

There are many applications where you’re basically filling a hole. You just need to make sure the clip you use is an appropriate length – not too short or too long – and the right diameter.

As an example, our SKUs 851, 594, 593 and 163 are all likely to do the same job even though they are different individual parts for Honda, Nissan, Subaru etc. They all fill a 10mm hole but vary in length between 14mm and 16mm and have slightly different heads.

Are your products Australian made?

Some are.

Our aluminium sump plug washers, copper washers, wire racks, plastic assortment kits and most of our Christmas tree clips are all made in Melbourne.

Times change, and unfortunately the local manufacturing of products like our screws and plastic clips has wrapped up here in Australia. Because of that, we’ve had to look overseas to keep these items in stock.

We know that global quality can be hit-or-miss depending on the product, so we do a lot of homework to make sure we’re only bringing in the best products available.

The good news is that we still keep things as local as possible. Every single one of our suppliers is an Australian business, and we’ve worked closely with most of them for years. We care a lot about the quality of what we sell, and we simply have no interest in stocking cheap or unreliable products.

What brand are your electrical products?

Most of what you will find in our electrical (automotive) category is Narva.

This includes electrical terminals, cable lugs, P clips, most cable ties, heat shrink, electrical fuses, electrical wire and electrical tape.

What material sump plug washer should I use?

It depends.

Some sump plugs require a specific washer, such as a lot of rubber washers, where you don’t have a choice.

If inexperienced, we recommend using the same type of washer as the original.

Never use a steel washer on an aluminium oil pan.

Aluminium: best used for aluminium oil pans. It is soft and will compress or crush evenly.

Copper: best used for steel oil pans. Gearboxes and differentials prefer copper due to its heat resistance. It is highly durable and seals well.

Rubber: best for uneven or scored pan surfaces.

Fibre: mostly for older vehicles, it absorbs oil slightly to create a seal. However, it may degrade over time.

Plastic or nylon: won’t stick to the pan, but has a low heat tolerance and may crack or not seal correctly on metal oil pans.

Self-tapping vs self-drilling screws
  • Self-tapping screws require a pre-drilled pilot hole.
  • Self-drilling screws have a built-in drill-bit tip that creates the hole and cuts threads in a single step.
  • Self-tapping screws feature a sharp, pencil-like or blunt point (such as Type A, AB or B styles).
  • Self-drilling screws feature a distinct twist-drill shape at the point.
  • Self-tapping screws are ideal for wood, plastics, pre-drilled metals and sheet metal.
  • Self-drilling screws are widely used for metal roofing, steel framing, sheds etc.
Rivnuts – things to know

Hole size

  • Each of our rivnuts has a drill size listed. This saves time guessing and avoids loose fits or spinning. The general rule of thumb is that the drill size matches the body diameter of the rivnut.

Grip range

  • Ensure the panel fits within the parameters of the grip range. Our rivnut range has standard grip ranges; be sure you do not require a long grip range.

Material

  • Generally, you match the material of the rivnut to the host material. Fibreglass or plastic hosts can use aluminium rivnuts.
  • Steel – high strength but moderate corrosion resistance.
  • Stainless steel – high strength, high corrosion resistance but very hard. May require special tools to crush and will require anti-seize to prevent galling.
  • Aluminium – lightweight, resistant to corrosion but low strength and susceptible to stripping due to low torque tolerance.

All things price

Is there a minimum order?

No. The cheapest product is $5.40.

You will have to pay shipping if your order is under $100.

All product pricing and shipping prices on the site include GST.

How much does freight cost?
  • $10.50 regular post – Australia Post
  • $13.50 express post – Australia Post
  • Orders over $100 receive free shipping.

Please refer to “What is the delivery cut-off time?” and “How long does delivery take?” under Ordering for further information regarding shipping.

Why are you so expensive? I can buy your clips for a fraction of the cost on eBay

Our clips are OEM quality – meaning they use the same materials and moulds as original clips.

Clips from dealerships can run between $5 and $20 each depending on the manufacturer and clip.

This is in contrast to cheap imported clips which use inferior materials and outdated or non-OEM moulding. This often means a flimsy clip that doesn’t fit perfectly.

We also run a legitimate business in Australia with sky-high expenses (and wages!). So you are supporting local, if that matters to you.

You will receive prompt despatch, tracking, and have access to customer service if required, via phone, email or in person.

Does buying an assortment work out to be cheaper?

Assortment kits are generally 10-20% cheaper than buying the contents individually, and you receive the plastic container for them for free.